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Purple smokey eye continues to be trendy this Fall 2010. The good news:
learning it is easier than you think. Here is some top advice on how to pull it off.
These days we are spoiled for makeup information. One of my favourite beauty blogs is “Girls In The Beauty Department” at Glamour.com. They post once or twice a day (at least). The posts are short, useful, sweet and fun. Smokey eye, being a major trend, is featured often, to my delight. Two main writers: Beth Shapouri and Petra Guglielmetti have some really good insights and observations.
My favorite feature is when they analyse celebrity makeup. Firstly, they know what they are talking about. Secondly, the style of writing is entertaining and enjoyable. Thirdy: the photos! Being Glamour after all, they have access to best new hot celebrity shots - something that most smaller blogs just don’t offer. I’ve seen best smokey eyes on the planet enjoyably dissected there and I loved it.
Another nice thing about it is the exchange with the readers. There are usually quite a lot of comments and enjoyable makeup conversations.
Today, they are serving a nice little post about The Mighty Highlighter. Although highlighter is not really eye makeup it has everything to do with smokey eyes. As the loveliness of Jennifer Lopez’s and Kim Kardashian’s smokey eyes proves. If you are serious about your smokey eyes never underestimate the power of highlighter. This great post by Beth Shapouri will explain where to apply it. Keep lovely.
I started to experiment with different sorts of purples, violets and lilacs and different ways to make them look “smoky”. And you know what: it’s actually more wearable and flattering than I thought! Actually quite pretty.
Sculpting and creating dimension is key here. Otherwise one just ends up with a colourful eye and nothing smokey about it! You need 2 or 3 shades to make it work. Learning this technique of smokey eye makeup is essential.
Base: a light (but vibrant) lilac/ violet shade all the way up to the brow bone.
Dark eyepencil (preferably plum) all around the eye on the lashline
Darker eyeshadow (darker purple, plum, soft mocha brown, charcoal) to sculpt the lid and “smoke out” the eye pencil.
Then the usual: highlighter here and there and a touch of bronzer to give dimension and glow to the face.
I used a plum eyepencil and inexpensive Avon eyeshadows in Purple Haze. The intensity of colours was just right and the look was elegant and romantic.
My husband liked this spring purple smokey eye and it mattered to me. For the obvious reason, but also because men famously dislike strong, colourful makeup. So there is something in this violet/ purple/plum combo that goes down well with men.
For visual inspiration check out this lovely close up from Michael Kors Spring Summer 2010 catwalk. These sublime purple eyes courtesy of makeup artist Dick Page almost single handedly created this trend.
What is your secret formula for purple smokey eye?
There are four great reasons to start doing smokey eyes right now. Or to learn it, if needed.
First of all: it’s totally trendy. I would say even more: smokey eye is here to stay as opposed to being a seasonal thing. There is obviously public demand for it and makeup companies are loving it. It is becoming an “always great” classic such as red lips.
Secondly, it is universally flattering. And, before you stop me, let me say: yes it is. Following the shape of your eye, your age and colouring you can find so many ways to do smokey eyes! There is the full-lidded, bare-lidded, contour-only, misty, precise, smudgy, soft, hard, black, dark, purple, brown… So many smokey eye styles and techniques! Rest assured: in the smokey eye kingdom there is a look waiting just for YOU. I was once there: certain that my small lids and narrow eyes were not smokey eye material. Now I know better.
Thirdly, products available. I believe we are living in the golden age of makeup cosmetics. The textures are superb, the finish is natural-looking and wearable. The colours are finally as they should. Really good makeup is increasingly affordable. Also tools, like brushes, which till recently were makeup artists’ domain are suddenly widely available. This is the perfect time to engage in some REAL makeup of which smokey eye is a prime example.
And finally: information. There was a time when the only way to learn smokey eyes properly was to enter a makeup school and wait till the last course: the difficult art of smokey eyes. But not anymore. Now everybody wants to advise you on how to do smokey eye makeup. Whether everybody doing that is good enough: that’s another issue. But still it is much more info than two or three years ago. I am obviously part of that smokey eyes revolution and so is my “Love Smokey Eyes Ebook” which I cordially invite you to order. That is, if you want a complete and detailed guide on how to get perfect smokey eyes every time.
So why not indeed? Have fun and look beautiful. Now. More on lovely spring smokey eyes in the next post!
Seeing smokey eyes in a wider picture can be educational. This makeup, so trendy now, actually dates back to almost a hundred years ago.
The Sixties were an era of smokey eyes’ great influence. I was reminded of that aesthetic while reviewing Sienna Miller’s look at the Met Gala two posts ago. Let’s see the real thing: smokey eyes straight from the Sixties. The example: wonderful and splendid model Verushka on the cover of Vogue. (Below I include a link to view this look).
It is interesting to analyse this makeup and see which elements still apply and which look dated.
My first observation is the brow bone: it would definitely be done differently today. On Verushka it’s quite white and chalky. These days a more subtle and natural approach is encouraged. The eyeshadow/highlighter under the eyebrow is usually more flesh-coloured and sheer.
Another difference is the face. I would say that today a makeup artist would do more sculpting with highlighter, bronzer and blush.
Otherwise, Verushka’s look it very on trend! Black eyeshadow spiced up with some seriously winged eyeliner. Seductive cat-eye shape enhanced by false eyelashes. Peach-coloured mouth and matching blush. And I just love the way she is wearing the head scarf: it frames the eyes and mouth perfectly.
You can admire this historic rendition of smokey eyes by clicking below onto the Irvin Penn photo of Verushka which graced the cover of Vogue in 1964. Isn’t it just groovy?
http://www.style.com/beauty/icon/071108ICON/
A copper or gold smokey eye is quite a trend this spring. It will also go perfectly with a summer tan. But as with all metallics, it looks easier than it really is. Sarah Jessica Parker (or rather her makeup artist) showed how to do it at the recent Met Gala. (Yes, I am still writing about it, sorry!).
The lid was covered with a coppery eyeshadow all the way up to brow bone but not over it. (Alternatively it could be a soft coppery/gold eye pencil). The eye was lined with a dark brown eye pencil/liner including the inner corner. To add dimension and that smokey effect, the lid was sculpted with a brown eyeshadow. The bottom lashline was gently smoked out: I think it was a slightly shimmery brown.
Gold and copper look best with a warm skin tone so the face was beautifully “tanned” with a matte bronzer. To introduce variety, the blush had pink undertones.
The mouth was in nude lipstick with a dash of pink, just like the blush. The contour was lined with a natural lip liner to give fullness.
This makeup went perfectly with the seventies look that Sarah Jessica Parker emulated in her pale-gold Halston dress. And she had a giant bow in her hair! (She must be one of the few people in Hollywood who can get away with it).
The hair had a deep side parting and cascaded down in golden waves. It reminded me of Jerry Hall hairstyles form the seventies.
A mass of vintage diamond and gold bracelets, worn together on one wrist, ensured a serious red carper status.
Copper eyeshadow is tricky and not always flattering. But with the help of a brown eyepencil and eyeshadow as well as bronzer it can look really good and so trendy! See for yourself by clicking on the link below. This look is saying to me: summer is coming! Can you hear it too?
In makeup it is interesting to see a rule broken. But only when the result is a success. It usually goes without saying that a smokey eye absolutely needs a dark eyepencil or eyeliner at the bottom lashline. But as the stylish Sienna Miller look proves, it does not need to be so.
Kate Lee, the renown Chanel makeup artist, kept the bottom lashline light while focusing on the top lid.
Navy eyepencil was applied from the lashline all the way up to the crease. To make the colour more rich it was applied wet. Then it was set and intensified with navy eyeshadow. There was not much blending in this smokey eye - just enough to soften the edges. The shape had to stay precise and clear.
The bottom lashline was light but not bare. Lots of effort went into making the under-eye area extra fair: eyepencil, eyeshadow, under-eye concealer and what other brightening products there are. I think a light, maybe shimmery, eyepencil went on the inner rims and light eyeshadow was dusted along the bottom lashline. (And of course a light accent on the browbone.)
The light under-eye area stood out with the skin warmed up by bronzer and gold-toned blush.
Tan skin made pink-nude sixties mouth look especially lovely.
Hair was a clear Brigitte Bardot influence with waves and romantic cascades of blond tresses.
The navy eye matched the navy-saphire dress which was rather elaborate: low-cut, train, lace, various layers and textures.
Baroque jewelry accented the sixties rich-dandy look: drop earrings with sapphires, several rings and a statement bracelet (or watch, I am not sure).
Elaborate, snakeskin cage sandals in navy completed the creation.
Kate Lee does great smokey eyes. She created some famous Keira Knightley and Diane Kruger looks. It was interesting to see her do something slightly unexpected: light bottom lashline is rather nice. Sienna Miller looked very fresh, awake and vibrant. To see a lovely close up of this “half smokey eye” click here. Don’t you agree that navy really makes blue eyes pop?
I know I should start fading my Met Gala coverage: but it’s difficult. There were simply too many fabulous smokey eye looks there. So bear with me for just a few more posts.
Rachel Bilson’s smokey eye was particularly fresh and elegant.
The ingredients: black liner/eyepencil, light grey silvery eyeshadow, highlighter. It seems the makeup artist spent a while applying liner to the lashline to really darken it. I don’t think the line was smudged but rather kept close to the lashline. The inner rim was lined as well. Then the grey-silver eyeshadow went all the way to the brow bone.
It was a relatively soft eye which needed stronger contrast. Highlighter on the brow bone created just that. The bottom lashline was kept quite neat. The design was controlled and neat- which made it stand out.
Nicely arched, natural eyebrows framed the face.
A bit of bronzer sculpted the face and gave healthy glow.
Dewy, luminous cheeks in warm pink gave sweetness to the look.
Mouth was a rose lipgloss affair.
Hair, wavy and parted on the side, had a pretty and unpretentious allure. Natural- looking nails enhanced that feeling.
The light grey on the eye was echoed in the grey of the patterned Louis Vuitton dress.
With barely any jewelry the look was very understated.
I read opinions that the overall look (especially the dress) was a bit too low-key for that occasion. It might be so, especially when compared to glittery gowns with trains that other stars wore. But Rachel Blison looked very pretty and the smokey eye was really special.
Although I am not a fan of the traditional black and grey smokey eye formula, I really like this one. It did precisely what a smokey eye should do: define the eye and intensify the gaze. Although neat and rather understated, it still looked quite sexy. Check out this sweet smokey eye by clicking below. Isn’t it just pretty?
The Met Gala overview would be incomplete without the queen of smokey eye: Jennifer Lopez. She is an expert at it, she wears it well and often.
She was all shimmer and magic in a sequin-embellished, strapless gown. A black smokey eye anchored this fantasy and gave it substance.
This smokey eye was a slight variation on the look that Jennifer Lopez usually wears. She obviously found her perfect formula and sticks to it, which is a very wise thing to do. It consists of strong black liner, black and charcoal eyeshadow and some gorgeous shimmery gold/silver thing used on the lighter areas.
The eye was rimmed all around, including the inner corner. Bottom inner rim was also lined in black. Then black and/or dark grey eyeshadow with a dash of shimmer was applied to the lid and blended out to perfection. The outer eye corner was accented and lifted. The inner lid was opened up with a shimmery light eyeshadow.
Natural-looking brows and slightly tinted nude lipgloss finished the look.
Natural nails and slightly “undone” hair added nonchalance.
Diamond earrings and rings enhanced the sparkle of the dress.
Looking at this makeup I remember, time and again, that smokey eye makeup is about face as well. The perfect collaboration of foundation, concealer, bronzer, blush and highlighter creates a perfect canvas for the dark eye. That’s why smokey eye never looks harsh on Jennifer Lopez - it just melts into the face, as it should. To take in the loveliness of this smokey eye masterpiece, click on the link below. You would be able to see the whole look and also the makeup itself. Do you love it like I love it?
One of the most flattering smokey eye looks at the Met Gala was a sultry design on Kerry Washington.
The star's intricate draped red dress really needed a strong smokey eye. And the makeup artist Carola Gonzales absolutely delivered the magic. She expertly applied black eyeshadow all the way to the crease and blended it out. She also accented the outer eye corner to lift the eye. Lots and lots of black eyepencil and liner are a must in a look as such. To make the eye extra smouldering, the bottom inner rims were lined in black too. There also seems to be light eyeshadow in the inner lid, to set eyes more apart.
The face was refreshed with a rose-coloured blush. Mouth was very soft with just a bit of lipgloss.
Arched, dark eyebrows were the finishing touch.
Nails and toenails were natural: a trick to keep the "red dress and smokey eye" combo from looking too overdone.
Hair was shiny, straight, long and parted in the centre.
It’s not really a done thing to accesorise a red dress with black. Kerry Washington opted for gold and bronze. And it looked great: bronze clutch bag and high heels gave the red dress a contemporary feel and harmonised beautifully with Washington's lovely skin tone. The jewelry was gold: small earrings and a subtle bracelet.
As usual, Kerry Washington looked lady-like and feminine. What I loved about the smokey eye was that it was quite matte, black, very simple yet really effective. See this lovely look for yourself by clicking below:
It was a pleasant surprise to see Claire Danes looking vampy and provocative at the recent Met Gala.
Pale and luminous in a silver, textured dress she wore a rock'and'roll-inspired smokey eye. The dark grey metallic shadow echoed the sheen of the gown. The perfectly nonchalant smokey eye was extended sideways. Makeup artist Gucci Westman added substance with lots of black liner to make the lashline very dark and smouldering. Then she softened the look with lovely, natural-looking eyebrows.
Black liner might sometimes look harsh, especially on fair blondes. Hence, a sweep of peachy-nude blush which ensured a healthy glow. The mouth was classic smokey eye makeup approach: soft lipgloss with a touch of pink.
Hair was slightly messy to convey the edgy attitude, but still suitable for the ocasion.
Black nails completed the smokey eye perfectly. And they harmonised with the black clutch bag.
There was one piece of jewelry only: a statement silver necklace with a rock'and'roll feel to it.
The strapless Burberry dress with a train was pure class. The dark smokey eye was all edge. What a fresh and intelligent combination. See for yourself by clicking on the link below. Doesn’t Claire Danes look simply amazing?
http://www.fabsugar.com/Claire-Danes-2010-Costume-Institute-Gala-8308328
One of the great smokey eye looks of the recent Met Gala was Iman’s creation. It was sublime and obviously inspired by the 1920s and 1930s: a very dark eye and a rather dark mouth. Hair, clothes and accessories were reminiscent of this era as well.
Iman wore a long black dress by Prada. It was quite fitted but not too obvious, thanks to the dreamy, flowy material with a soft sheen to it.
The sheen of the dress was complemented by the deep charcoal smokey eye. A gorgeous cloud of shimmery charcoal. There was quite a lot of dark eyeshadow applied around the inner lid, towards the nose - not a suggestion for everyone, but with Iman’s sublime features it absolutely worked. The bottom lashline was expertly “smoked out”. There was just a touch of silvery sparkle in the inner corner. What I like about this smokey eye design is that the highlighter on the brow bone was very delicate, almost not there. ( I find that strong shimmery highlighter in that area can make the smokey eye look vulgar).
The ever so important eyebrows were downplayed, very delicate: again reminiscent of the 1930s.
The current advice is to keep the mouth pale and innocent. But here Sam Fine, who did the makeup using IMAN cosmetics, opted for very deep burgundy. The result was rich and very delicious.
The face was beautifully sculpted with bronzer.
The hair was shiny and meticulously styled, again true to the era. Nails (and toe nails) were of the colour matching to the lipstick (or slightly darker). Diamond drop earrings, bracelets and ring enhanced the shimmer and sheen of the whole look.
It was obviously an homage to the original smokey eye era of the 1920s and 1930s. Yet it did not feel like fancy dress at all. And the smokey eye was simply divine. Click below for a beautiful close up. What do you think? Do you love it like I love it?
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=4024805&l=c21e0adc77&id=131755982967
Yesterday’s Met Gala (short for The Costume Institute Gala at the Metropolitan Museum) was a spectacular showcase of smokey eye makeup. Best smokey eyes done by the best makeup artists, on the best faces in the world, enhanced by the best stylists. What a treat. In the coming posts of this blog I will cover the most interesting and loveliest looks.
I will start with Diane Kruger who is my personal favourite when it comes to style in general and smokey eyes in particular.
In her very long, demure (but not really), simple white dress Diane Kruger looked splendid. The gown was from Calvin Klein Collection. It was rather appropriate, since Diane Kruger has just been announced the face of Klein’s new fragrance.
The dress was complemented with gold and earth-tone makeup and accessories.
The smokey eyes were dark bronze and brown. The dreamy bronze shadow with a bit of shimmer went quite above the crease. The soft, golden highlighter applied in the inner corner and most of the inner lid opened up the eyes and gave light. These warm earthy shades made Diane Kruger’s eyes look very blue.
With such precise, sophisticated look every detail had to be immaculate. Groomed and accented eyebrows framed the face and the sophisticated smokey eyes.
As should be done with smokey eye makeup, the rest of the features was playing second fiddle. The mouth was done with a nude- beige creamy lipstick ( I am pretty certain it was lipstick, not lipgloss). Soft pink cheeks ensured that the face was not “drowned” in monotonous neutrals.
Hair was up, slicked back, with a precise centre parting.
Nails looked natural oozing even more purity and class. The jewelry was kept to the luxurious minimum with rather small earrings and a large ring. The only accessory was a golden miniaudiere which, together with the classic ring, dressed the hand beautifully.
This look proves the point that smokey eye makeup does not have to be strong or loud. That it can exude purity and utter class, something Diane Kruger is so good at. To enjoy that sophisticated look, please click below. One of the pictures is a relative close-up so you can contemplate the smokey eyes easily. Enjoy!
http://stylefrizz.com/201005/diane-kruger-in-white-calvin-klein-dress-at-met-gala-2010/
Blue eyeshadow is a bit of a scary topic. There are lots of unstylish memories haunting this rather innocent colour. But… it is trendy this season. So let’s tackle it. And more importantly: let’s use it to create great smokey eyes!
First though, a very succinct and useful tip from a revered makeup artist Gina Brooke: “ Your shadow won’t look straight out of the’80s if you choose soft hues” (source: “ How To Wear Colored Shadow, instyle.com).
Following that train of thought, I would advise to use a very pale powder blue as a base. On top of that wash of colour “sculpt” the lid beautifully with greys or blacks to create a multidimensional smokey eye. That would define the eye and still take advantage of the spring trend.
Would you use blue on your eyes?
Pastel eyeshadows are all the rage this season. But it is not an easy trend to pull off. And how can it be done with a smokey eye attitude?
Learn with smokey eyes master Dick Page. This cult makeup artist (and Shiseido artistic director) is the man responsible for the season’s Michael Kors vibrant purple smokey eye. He says it so beautifully: “I sometimes “anchor” the color with a smudge of black pencil along the lash line, blended into the shadow (…); that gives a little extra weight to the color and is good for women who feel that the pastel shade alone is too junior.” (source: Courtney Dunlop; “Dick Page Maps Out Your Spring Makeup Look”; stylelist.com)
I personally prefer a charcoal eye pencil (instead of black) for a slightly softer, yet still smokey, look. But it’s the fresh idea that counts here. It’s a great classy hint on how to do a pastel and a smokey eye in the same time. And it works with all the on trend pastels: lilacs, baby blues, teal, mint green.
How do you feel about this spring trend? Do you do pastels? How do you work it into your smokey eye makeup?